Still puttering around Whiterun on my characters. Mostly due to getting a feel for what way I'm going.
So far..
Good: The land is pretty.

Though the shadow renderding slow up mentioned before hurts some. While still a bit undecided on the mechanics of perks, I do like the new 'non-class' system. Also finding myself very fond of the new magic system.
Bad: UI has random moments of sluggish to non-response with the mouse. Menu 'navigating' is a pain more often then not, it's very obvious that it was designed for platforms first, PCs second.
Ugly: Most person models. As others have said, 'realism' effects on everyone makes me wonder if bathing's a fade that never really caught on in Skyrim. Movement animations for the Dragonborn is oddly clunky looking. Also deep hate for being so bloody intertwined with Steam.